Sunday, September 27, 2009

Foie Gras Vols-au-Vent

Seared Foie Gras Vols-au-vent, Apple Chutney (aka one bite of heaven, aka mouthful of heart attack)

When I worked at Per Se I was the one assigned to make the vols-au-vents. Not one of my favorite tasks. We only made them for private party events, I was very thankful for that. Luckily though I didn't have the worst job, my co-worker had to make the puff pastry dough from scratch for me to use. September Daring Bakers' Challenge was to make the puff pastry dough and make vols-au-vents.
Vols-au-vents make great vessels for all sorts of fillings and are perfect for a fancy canape party.
If you really want to go through all the trouble, the recipe for the puff pastry dough is below but it is really not necessary. Its much more efficient, easier and more consistent to buy the dough frozen. No matter what you do it will never come out consistent unless you make it a million times and have a sheeter machine to roll the dough out perfectly.
If you make the dough, keep it very cold and roll it out to about 1/8 inch thick. If you buy it let it defrost a bit then unroll it.

Chill it again and use pastry cutters to punch out an even number of circles. Using a slightly smaller cutter, cut out the centers of half of the circles of dough. Then using water or egg wash glue the borders onto the bases. Chill again then dock the centers with a fork and bake at 350F until golden brown.

Fill them with whatever you like.

Garden Tomato, Olive Tapenade, Goat Cheese
Michel Richard's Puff Pastry Recipe (from Baking with Julia)

Ingredients:

2-1/2 cups (12.2 oz/ 354 g) unbleached all-purpose flour
1-1/4 cups (5.0 oz/ 142 g) cake flour
1 tbsp. salt (you can cut this by half for a less salty dough or for sweet preparations)
1-1/4 cups (10 fl oz/ 300 ml) ice water
1 pound (16 oz/ 454 g) very cold unsalted butter

plus extra flour for dusting work surface

Mixing the Dough:

Check the capacity of your food processor before you start. If it cannot hold the full quantity of ingredients, make the dough into two batches and combine them.

Put the all-purpose flour, cake flour, and salt in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade and pulse a couple of times just to mix. Add the water all at once, pulsing until the dough forms a ball on the blade. The dough will be very moist and pliable and will hold together when squeezed between your fingers. (Actually, it will feel like Play-Doh.)

Remove the dough from the machine, form it into a ball, with a small sharp knife, slash the top in a tic-tac-toe pattern. Wrap the dough in a damp towel and refrigerate for about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the butter between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and beat it with a rolling pin until it flattens into a square that's about 1" thick. Take care that the butter remains cool and firm: if it has softened or become oily, chill it before continuing.

Incorporating the Butter:

Unwrap the dough and place it on a work surface dusted with all-purpose flour (A cool piece of marble is the ideal surface for puff pastry) with your rolling pin (preferably a French rolling pin without handles), press on the dough to flatten it and then roll it into a 10" square. Keep the top and bottom of the dough well floured to prevent sticking and lift the dough and move it around frequently. Starting from the center of the square, roll out over each corner to create a thick center pad with "ears," or flaps.

Place the cold butter in the middle of the dough and fold the ears over the butter, stretching them as needed so that they overlap slightly and encase the butter completely. (If you have to stretch the dough, stretch it from all over; don't just pull the ends) you should now have a package that is 8" square.

To make great puff pastry, it is important to keep the dough cold at all times. There are specified times for chilling the dough, but if your room is warm, or you work slowly, or you find that for no particular reason the butter starts to ooze out of the pastry, cover the dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate it . You can stop at any point in the process and continue at your convenience or when the dough is properly chilled.

Making the Turns:

Gently but firmly press the rolling pin against the top and bottom edges of the square (this will help keep it square). Then, keeping the work surface and the top of the dough well floured to prevent sticking, roll the dough into a rectangle that is three times as long as the square you started with, about 24" (don't worry about the width of the rectangle: if you get the 24", everything else will work itself out.) With this first roll, it is particularly important that the butter be rolled evenly along the length and width of the rectangle; check when you start rolling that the butter is moving along well, and roll a bit harder or more evenly, if necessary, to get a smooth, even dough-butter sandwich (use your arm-strength!).

With a pastry brush, brush off the excess flour from the top of the dough, and fold the rectangle up from the bottom and down from the top in thirds, like a business letter, brushing off the excess flour. You have completed one turn.

Rotate the dough so that the closed fold is to your left, like the spine of a book. Repeat the rolling and folding process, rolling the dough to a length of 24" and then folding it in thirds. This is the second turn.

Chilling the Dough:

If the dough is still cool and no butter is oozing out, you can give the dough another two turns now. If the condition of the dough is iffy, wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes. Each time you refrigerate the dough, mark the number of turns you've completed by indenting the dough with your fingertips. It is best to refrigerate the dough for 30 to 60 minutes between each set of two turns.

The total number of turns needed is six. If you prefer, you can give the dough just four turns now, chill it overnight, and do the last two turns the next day. Puff pastry is extremely flexible in this regard. However, no matter how you arrange your schedule, you should plan to chill the dough for at least an hour before cutting or shaping it.


Saturday, September 12, 2009

Real Belgian Waffles?!


Light Fluffy Yeasty Waffles with Black Current Jam, Maple Syrup and Butter

Start making the batter the night before (this recipe is way too much work)

Belgian Waffle Batter

1/2cup warm water
2.25tsp active dry yeast (1 packet)
1T sugar
Dissolve yeast in warm water, add yeast and let stand for 10-15 min until foamy

3cups flour
1/4tsp salt
3 large eggs separated
1 large egg
1/3cup sugar
1cup water
1.5cups milk
1 stick butter, melted
2tsp oil
2tsp vanilla

Mix egg yolks, whole egg, sugar, water, milk , butter, oil, vanilla
Once yeast mixture is foamy add to egg mixture
Mix wet mixture with the flour and salt until smooth
Let sit at room temperature for 1hour
Cover and refrigerate overnight
In the morning whip egg whites to stiff peaks and fold into yeast batter
Pour into pre-heated waffle maker.

This recipe is good but not worth the work.. just bust out the Aunt Jemima.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Scraps anyone?

When cutting puff pastry into specific shapes for tarts it can result in a lot of waste. Puff pastry is made with so much buttery goodness why throw it away when you can piece it together into a crunchy, sugary cookie.






Monday, September 7, 2009

Seeing More Red...


My little raspberry bush is bearing its second round of berries for the year so I was inspired to make some little treats with them.

Raspberry Tart, puff pastry, vanilla custard, peach coulis

Almond cake, Raspberries, vanilla creme chantilly, roasted peach
Raspberry Peach Melba Milk Shake, vanilla ice cream


Sunday, September 6, 2009

Sweet!

Offal: Sweetbreads
Don't know why these are called sweetbreads but it has something to do with Old English.
Rinse them, dry them, fry them coated in flour and finish with some brown butter. Squeeze some lemon juice on top and enjoy.

Figs, Not Just for Newtons


Its the end of the summer and its also the end of fig season when they are really sweet and ripe.
I like to rinse them with salt water and lay them on paper towels to dry as soon as I get them home. They tend to get moldy very quickly if not stored properly.

Fig Frangipagne Tart

Frozen Puff Pastry Sheets- thawed but still cold
Unroll and cut into squares and cut a 1/8 inch border leaving two corners attached
Bring the cut corners to the opposite side and egg wash to attach to the top of the base.
Egg wash the border

Almond cream
1cup Almond flour
3 eggs
3/4cup sugar
1 stick butter
Cream the butter with the sugar, add eggs and mix till well incorporated
Add almond flour
Spread a thin layer on the base of the puff pastry squares

Slice Figs and place them on top of the almond cream, slightly overlapping.
Bake Tarts at 350F until puff pastry is golden brown and puffed.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Please Come Again...

When we have repeat clients that we know are foodies we like to change the menu and try new dishes.
Amuse Bouche: Corn "pudding", Clam gelee, Uni, Chives

Heirloom Tomato Salad, Jamon Iberico, Melon "Parisian", Basil, Lucini Olive Oil

"White Gazpacho", Smoked Paprika Shrimp, Spanish White Anchovy, Red Gazpacho Granite, Curried Grisini, Candied Fennel
Roasted Sea Scallop, Organic Carrot Puree, Confit Celery Root, Meyer Lemon "Caviar", Sea Urchin Emulsion

Mediterranean Sea Bream, Lobster Fennel Lima Fricasse, Coconut Saffron Nage

Hudson Valley Rabbit, Fresh Tagliatelle, Wild Burgundy Snails, Braised Red Cabbage, Pine Nut "Crumble"

Seared Duck Breast, Rhubarb Chutney, Smoked "Grits", Granny Smith Apples, Shaved Foie Gras

Sous Vide Veal Tenderloin, Crispy Sweetbreads, Brown Butter Turnip Puree, Golden Beets, Bluefoot Mushroom, Veal Jus

Robiola Rochetta, Peach Rhubarb Terrine, Orange Honey, Candied Marcona Almonds

Lime Marinated Papaya, Mojito Foam, Coconut Cream "Yolk"

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

What I Crave....


You probably will think I'm weird but I've been thinking of these white anchovies for weeks ever since we did tapas night and I couldn't find them.
I found them at Citarella this week and practically ate the whole container. They are briny and acidic. Great eaten just on a piece of bread or straight from the container.

A taste of Italy

My friends have been coming over for dinners at my house. The first time I made Prime Rib eye steaks with Chimichuri. This time I was in the mood for Italian.
Fresh Fettuccine with Mussels, Calamari and Hot Sopressata.
Eggplant Parmesan, Marinara Braised Brociola, Fresh Mozzarella and Basil.